After spending time today playing with a Studio (aka Silver Reed or Knitmaster) 700 and the lace carriage with the full-fastion lace setting, I've decided that automatic lace edgings can be knitted.
I haven't actually done it yet, but firmly believe it can be done, and I do love a puzzle! It doesn't appear that it will be much different between the Studio punch card machine and their electronic patterning machines.
I'm no wizard about Studio models, but this discussion is confined to machines that worked with the full-fashion-capable lace carriage, not the older models.
By the way, if you didn't require the process to be fully automatic, scalloped lace could easily be done with a little movement of the needles - bringing out and removing extra needles as required. If you're happy with the single transfer edgings, this would be quite fast and practical, since the Studio knits and transfers those all in one pass! However, I'm trying to do fully automatic lace edgings.
There are many fascinating little differences between the makes of machines, which helps explain why each brand has such fervent adherents. There's the sturdiness of the Studio, the easy glide, the built-in knit radar; on the other hand, the lack of cast-on combs and some of the funny little charts are off-putting.
I don't know how to knit automatic lace edgings with the Studio lace carriage alone, since it lacks a slip setting. Instead, I put both carriages on the bed, which would normally be inpractical with the size of the carriages and no extension rails, but works with these narrow edgings. The lace carriage could be set on full-fashion lace to transfer stitches only, and the main carriage could knit only the desired stitches and slip the rest.
Do any of y'all know whether Studio made extension rails?
Anyhow, the carriages don't interfere with each other mechanically, because there isn't a belt. The one not being used just sits there and makes no trouble. Just don't bump a carriage off the bed and onto the floor. Avoid collisions.
Next, I need to work out the sequence of punched rows. For an old Brother knitter like me, used to seeing the selected needles, I felt a little lost because the Studio doesn't move selected needles out between rows. I could figure out what needles were selected by seeing what it did with them. An easier way to see what's selected is to put the card advance lever on "stop" so that the little gray tabs display the current row's punches. This led me to do lots of rolling the card around, moving the lever, and looking at the different results. I got stuck, though, when I could see the current row was a "nothing punched" row and the lace carriage acted like it was an "everything punched" row. After making the same mistake several times, I finally decided to stop, sleep on this, and try again on a new day.
I think it's possible!