Swirl Baby Blanket Part 1 of 3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBje2C9n3Oc
Swirl Baby Blanket Part 2 of 3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYbFGR5D4Ew
Swirl Baby Blanket Part 3 of 3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVp0qM1Qsck
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I enjoyed watching the baby blanket videos, Diana. The blanket is lovely, and I learned several new techniques from your demonstrations.
ReplyDeleteAndrea
How much yarb did the blanket take
ReplyDeleteThanks
Love the videos and i have been knittin a very long time.....
Pat
thanks for the video very nice
ReplyDeleteHow much yarn did it take
Pat I didnt know what you meant by my url.........
I really enjoyed watching your videos, Diana, so very well shown and easily explained. I look forward to making a similar blanket with that lovely finished edge.
ReplyDeleteVery clever technique I learned a lot! Many thanks
ReplyDeleteFraancoise Paris, France
I have now made 2 and hope to make more. The ones I made ended up using 2 1/2 of the large skiens of the Baby Soft that Walmaat carries. I was lucky and had yarn that I had gotten on clearance last year.
ReplyDeleteThanks again for a great video demonstration. Being such a "newbie" I do not think I would have been able to make it with out the video. If a picture is worth a thousand words a video must be worth at least a Gigabit!!
bpcrafty, GA
Thank You so much for making such a lovely video and sharing it with us all.
ReplyDeleteBless You and your ingenuity!
Christy Carpenter, FL
Yes, you can do this on a standard (4.5) machine and the same number of stitches if you use every other needle! Mine came out very pretty!
ReplyDeleteDiana,
ReplyDeletelove you videos - have a question on knitting the socks on the flat bed you did not mention how many rows for the foot before getting to the toe. Could you send me the answer to MystiqueULH@aol.com pls.
Thanks and keep it up.
Thank you so much for this project, which I made, and all that you do to help us machine knitters! I used 5 pastel colors for the blanket for a rainbow, with a white edge, have enough yarn for another. You are a super teacher!
ReplyDeleteI have made one so far and plan to make another one this week...they are lovely and soooooo easy to make. Thanks so much...your video demonstration was excellent!
ReplyDeleteDiana did I see that you have a motor? I have two brother motors and one studio motor and no books for any of them. Could you help me out?
ReplyDeleteI have that Brother motor, the 100 model. No idea where the book is...probably around the house somewhere.
ReplyDeletewe set it up years ago and forgot it.
Diana - I have a weird question... After you finish your first wedge, instead of finishing it with waste yarn so you can do the edging last, can you begin your worm trim then when you get to the end of that wedge, do a few rows in waste yarn then begin with the next wedge? I know it sounds silly - I can picture it in my head but I just wasn't sure if it is doable or if it would be just a big hassle and not worth the effort to do each wedge completely, trim and all. ;)
ReplyDeleteI can't quite picture this. The worm trim is sort of intended to do along an edge afterwards; I suppose you could come up with a trim that binds off.
ReplyDeleteI figured since you are going to add the trim on the live end when it was completely done why not just start the worm trim and when you get to the end of that wedge just knit the trim on to waste yarn and then when you are done with the next section pick up the trim and trim out that section so that you pretty much have it done as you go along.
ReplyDeleteI have another quick question - do you pick up one loop out two when you hang your finished wedge?
Well, to do that you'd have to use the "hold" setting and weights so the worm trim could knit and the other needles in the wedge not knit. There's an intrinsic weight problem when you're not knitting all the needles, I'm not sure it would be practical, with having to move weight and move needles and move stitches after each six rows instead of picking up stitches.
ReplyDeleteRe the other question, I think the picking up of the side edge is clear in the video.
I have made one of these and I just love it. However, I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly because each one of my wedges is longer than the other...when I pick up the last stitch of the 60 and then knit it it is 2 rows longer on one side. Then it doesn't make an exactly circle. I had to really block it to make it a circle. Please help me...What am I doing wrong?
ReplyDeleteThe triangles are deliberately longer on one side. That's what makes the swirl. They will not make an exact circle because they're triangles, so they're straight on the side edge and they're longer on one side. It needs a little light steam to make it rounder, and a sturdy edging helps as well.
ReplyDeleteI love this blanket, THANKS for the instructions! I finished it of with an i-cord bind of, voila!
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to dig in to the rest of your you-tube videos.
(o:
I have been trying to do this on a USM, but no luck. The bond just does not like the narrow rows at the beginning nor the increases. Are there any tips you could offer to complete this? (Also, I have seen the pattern for the USM swirl blanket and I like this one better.) I have considered working it from the outside edge to the center, but I'm not sure how that would work logistically.
ReplyDeleteSome readers have made it on the USM, but I have not. You can do rows with very few stitches if you use a cast-on rag and light weight. You may need the short-row work-around that I teach in the Goldilocks sew-as-you-go slipper.
ReplyDeleteThis is a wonderful pattern, and the videos were excellent.
ReplyDeleteTo help with hanging the wedges faster, I used a tip from another site where the lady hung a bobbi pin on the strand of yarn when coming to the end of the row (or before the beginning of the next row... when the carriage is on the left). The bobbi pins wind up being in the "knots" that you described in the video; so picking up the bar was fast to find by going between two pins.
It would be helpful to also put them at the opposite side of the starting triangle (where the increases are) so that you'd twist the pin and mount your stitch at the end when joining the first wedge to the piece.
I was using a USM to make this and the first wedge took a lot of patience and creative weight hanging. I don't have claw weights yet, so I used a bunch of S hooks weighted with washers (from the hardware department). So, in reply to Ravyn42, keeping weight at each edge is very important or the stitches will drop - move the weights constantly and add weights to the middle as you can. The only problems I had were at the start, but patience and weighting solved them all.
You can use the hairpins until you're very comfortable finding the loops; however, I teach lots of people to do this and it saves a lot of time not to bother and just poke those loops.
ReplyDeleteAs far as weights for your USM, bend some paper clips open and hang fishing weights on them! Carla here in Texas had a good photo on her site. Fishing weights are cheap.
I found a good deal on claw weights on eBay today, $6 each, with a reasonable pricing for shipping. No affiliation - bought some for myself. They still have them in stock.
Thanks for this pattern and for all your other videos. You have helped me enourmously on several occasions. If I ever have a machine knit problem I always think " let's see if Diana has a video on this". It is very generous of you to make all your videos available for free. Thanks again
ReplyDelete