Tuesday, August 10, 2021

Inspiration at Knotty Knits and Naughty Kids

 I don't see a lot of fun knitting blog activity these days - but here's a super cute one - Tracy is knitting a gnome!


Saturday, August 7, 2021

New Video Today!

 Hi, all, it's August and here's my new video, a garter stitch button band:

Not a lot to say today - headed off to Knit Natters, where we're doing a yarn swap and I have a demo of a wriggle lace scarf.

Friday, August 6, 2021

Yarn Weights - Guest Blog from Margit Tritt

 Margit is a Silver Reed (Studio) knitting machine dealer in Colorado.  Her business is www.pacaknits.com.  

I greatly appreciate active dealers like Margit who are knowledgeable and provide services for machine knitters.  Margit has classes and parts.  Margit is now the Silver Needles Cone Winder dealer.  I have one of these wonderful machines, which I keep out and use regularly.

Margit recently wrote a useful essay about yarn weights which follows.  I have a previous essay about yarn weights here:  https://diananatters.blogspot.com/search?q=yarn+weight  If you want to have an enjoyable, productive experience in machine knitting, choosing the right yarn is critical!

Yarn Weight Categories 

Compiled by Margit Tritt, www.PacaKnits.com

Updated January 2020 

ARGH! Everyone seems to call yarn by different names using a confusing set of units! Hand knit and crochet, EU (Europe) vs. US, machine knit, weaving WPP (wraps per inch), YPP (yards per pound), nm (meters per 1 gram – metric yarns number), … depending on the system you’re using, 16/2 = 2/24 = 6720 yds / lb (cotton count vs worsted count) 

BTW, the basic conversions I know off the top of my head are: • 2.54 cm = 1 inch • 453.6 grams = 1 pound • 1 kilogram (kg) = 2.2 pounds 

Thank goodness for Google (and other search engines) and built in conversion computations. In the “old” days when I got my bachelor’s degree in mathematics, we used the CRC Standard Mathematical Tables and Formulae. I don’t remember what version I used but much of this info is available on calculators now. 

What works with what machine? I’ve combined info from various web sites to provide basic guidelines. Please go to the sources listed below and do your own research. When all else fails – SWATCH!! (I’m kidding – always always always make a gauge swatch for a knit item that requires specific dimensions.) Note: Silver Reed manuals have photos to correlate actual sizes of yarn to stitch dial settings and of course, the different gauge machines will support different sizes of yarn. Yet more sets of numbers that have no relationship to the table below! 

 I did not include #6 (Super Bulky) and #7 (Jumbo) yarns as these generally cannot be used as main yarns in any machine. However, they may work for weaving so keep your yarn stash! 

3/11 = Sport Weight 

4/8 = Worsted Weight 

2/11and 3/15 = Fingering Weight 

2/20 and 2/24 = Fine weight 

2 strands of 2/24 together = Fingering Weight. 

Here are some pertinent links:

Craft Yarn Council Standard Weight System

Swicofil Yarn Conversion

Wikipedia Units of Textile Measurement

One nm equals 1,000 meters of yarn per kilogram (1,000 m/kg). This equals 50 meters per 50 grams. A 1/8 nm yarn (usually just called 1/8, without the nm) tells you that the yarn has been spun 8 times longer than the standard and is therefore finer. You will get 8,000 meters per kilogram if your yarn is a 1/8. The first number in the name, or the 1 in 1/8 indicates the number of plies in the yarn. A 1/8 yarn has one ply, a 2/8 yarn has 2 plies, etc. A 2/8 yarn indicates the yarn was spun to 8,000 meters per kilogram, but then plied into a two-ply yarn. The finished yarn will therefore measure 4,000 meters per kilogram. 

A 3/8 yarn will have 2,666 meters/kilogram, or 8000 divided by 3. 

How does the general numeric system compare to the CYCA chart? From thick to thin: 

  • 4/8 yarn yields 1,120 yards per pound and is closest to what hand knitters consider a DK weight yarn or #4. 
  • 3/8 yarn yields 1,490 yards per pound, or sport weight yarn. Similar to a DK weight, but slightly thinner or #3. 
  • 2/8 yarn yields 2,240 yards per pound, for a fingering weight yarn or #2. 
  • 2/18 yarn yields 5,040 yards per pound and is considered laceweight or #0 - #1. 
  • 2/20 yarn yields 5,600 yards per pound and is also considered laceweight. The difference between 2/18 and 2/20 is slight for a hand knitter, akin to the difference between 4/8 and 3/8. 
  • 2/24 yarn yields 5,960 yards per pound, and again, is considered laceweight.  

Saturday, July 10, 2021

New Video - How to use the Weave-R on your LK150

Kris at Kris Krafter has a new goodie - it's a weaving arm for LK150 (also LK100 and LK140).  This is for these Studio plastic bed machines, only.

I have a new video showing how to use it.  It's a very nice accessory.  Kris has them available at www.kriskrafter.com.  

I think you'll enjoy weaving!  For one thing, it makes a wider piece of knitting than plain stockinette.  It has a really different look.  It eliminates most curl along the sides.  Also, it's a more substantial, warmer piece of fabric.

In the video, I promised to share some weaving charts that use just 8 stitches in width.  Why 8 stitches?  Well, the Needle Beetle does 8-stitch pattern needle section on these machines, and in the video, I'm using it for some cute counted patterns.  I've tested these charts and tweaked them until I am satisfied that they make attractive designs.  Two of the charts, Pull Up 1 and Pull Up 2, are pull-up designs, and I show how to do that in the video.  On the chart, the X marks the spot (well, the needle) you'll put the loops onto before you knit the pull-up row.  

Note that I'm numbering the stitches from right to left, because the Needle Beetle goes from right to left and we pick out the first 8 needles on the right.  Why not count from right to left every time?

I numbered the rows from bottom to top, and of course, you'll knit them from bottom to top, repeating the marked number of rows.  I keep my place with a Post-It note.

Check out books and magazines for more weaving designs and ideas. 

In the video, I demonstrate the first, second, third and fourth designs, working down the left-hand side of the charts.  After you play with these, you'll probably have ideas for more designs.  

Tips about weaving:

1. Swatch first!  I know, I always say this... but it works out that some yarns work great for weaving yarns and others simply don't cooperate.  There are lots of yarns that work for weaving and won't go through your machine as regular knit stitches, but some yarns just don't weave well.  Besides, you'll want to inspect the color contrast and see how puffy the yarn is against the background yarn.
2.  Pull the weaving yarn down a little as you begin across with the weaving tool.
3.  Do you need to rip out?  It rips out like regular stockinette.  First work the weaving yarn out of the needles, then rip the row of knitting.
4.  Do you need to re-weave the row because the Weave-R didn't catch every spot?  This happens to me when I forget to pull down.  First, make sure all the stitches are in the latches, and then do the needle selection and weaving again.

Saturday, June 26, 2021

Synnove's teddy bears!

 I think these photos on Synnove's blog of knitted items using her teddy bear charts is not to be missed!


I especially enjoy her baby designs.  

Sunday, June 20, 2021

Inspiration from Lorna

 Lorna (Ozlorna blog) is an expert, creative and prolific knitter, and during my recent seminars, I got to know her and enjoy her very much, as we did Zoom social times.

She has dyed with jelly beans and I just have to share this with you:


Thursday, June 17, 2021

Inspiration from Knotty Knits

 I sure do like this hand knitted stitch pattern -


Tuesday, June 15, 2021

Inspiration from Synnove

 Check out Synnove's charity baby hats:


They're handknitted.  We can do something similar on the machine - love the vertical stripes as well as the opportunity to use bits of what I already have.  You could use this video for a sideways short-rowed baby hat:

I realize I don't have the cute little points on top of the head.  I'd have to think about that...

Saturday, June 12, 2021

Inspiration at Marzipan Knits

 I've had pot holders on the brain lately, and apparently, Mar has, too!  Check out her wonderful use for thinner cotton with striking Fair Isle designs:


And bless her, she's provided the instructions!

Wednesday, June 9, 2021

Inspiration at Yet Another Canadian Artisan

 I really like this tuck stitch - such deep texture!


Monday, June 7, 2021

NEW VIDEO! Cluster Edging

 I am absolutely crazy about this edging!  It is fantastic around blankets, it's easy to do, and it looks great.

Tuesday, January 12, 2021


Strings 2 Things 2021

Machine Knitting Seminar with Diana Sullivan

Get fired up and knitting in 2021!  

I'm having another high-value, content-rich online machine knitting seminar with something for every machine knitter, from beginner to adventurer.  

The emphasis in this seminar is on habit-forming projects that your friends and family will love.  There will be lots of interesting techniques taught along the way! 

The seminar is in February, and registrations are limited! Please sign up early to ensure your place. 

Register or see details:


Tuesday, January 5, 2021

First Video of 2021 - Five Stitch Braided Cable

Happy New Year!  Alright already, let's knit!

I just love braided cables!  Here's one for almost any machine:

Friday, January 1, 2021

Inspiration - Socks from Tom C.

 Sometimes I get a wonderful finished project email from a knitter with photos.

Tom C. emailed me these pictures of his socks, and, well, wow!

Here are some clever details on these socks:

  • The fair isle is under a hem so there are no floats inside.
  • The sock bottoms have every-other-needle fair isle for padding and looks
  • The pictures that personalize them are original! Tom drew the charts using a PPD and uploaded them,

Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Facebook in Ten Minutes a Day

I was advised that the best platform for my virtual seminars was going to be Facebook.

I rebelled at that.  I don't think social media brings out the best in a lot of people.   Also, Facebook has so, so much power over our lives and our used-to-be-private information.  

I studied alternatives, investigating a number of streaming platforms.  They were either expensive, complicated, or both.  

I ended up using Facebook because it lets you leave the video up in the private group so people can watch it whenever they want while the group is operating!  That is a fantastic feature.  Also, you can post all sorts of documents and links that keep all the necessities for a seminar together.  

I used Facebook, and it worked out just great.  Yup, I'll use it again.  I liked everything but Facebook "Rooms," which is like Zoom but not as good, not at all as good.

With me doing the seminars on FB, a lot of you are now communicating with me on FB.  I had to stop ignoring Facebook and start keeping an eye on it.  My friend list is longer, so I get more of everything.  If there's anger or negativity, I don't want that in my head because I will keep thinking about it.  

I especially want to manage my time, too - you know, more knitting and less nattering!

I have developed a deliberate system to deal with Facebook daily in 10 minutes or less.  I'm getting better at it, too!

Step One:  Open Notifications

  1. Check friend requests, and if the person is not a knitter, delete the request.  When my FB friend group got so large, a bunch of handsome older men with blank profiles wanted to be my friends.  These are fake scammer pod people.  An actual knitter usually has several of my knitting buddies on their friend list or pictures of their knitting machines or knitted items.  
  2. I love knitting posts, especially if they have pictures.  I only answer if I think I can add value somehow, perhaps answer a question or make a suggestion someone else hasn't already given.
  3. If the post is political, religious, sentimental, or any other kind of non-knitting, I might read it and I might not.  I am training myself to look at the picture and read the first sentence or so and make a decision.  This is most of the forwarded content and it's easily identified!  I spend no time on those whatsoever.  
  4. I do pay attention to family pictures and updates, of course.
  5. If the post is mean spirited, I spend no time on it.  I hardly ever see these, though, since most of my friends are knitters, an awesome group of people.  
  6. If the post is non-knitting and it's in a knitting group I administer, I delete it.  It's usually just a mistake.  For those groups, I posted "knitting only and be nice" rules, rules which also apply to me.  
Step Two:  Look at Messages

  1. If the message has a clickable link, I don't click it.  It might be malware.  I learned this the hard way.  :(  
  2. If the message is from a knitter or customer, I will do what I can to help them.  If it's a simple question, answer; if not, give them my email address and ask them to write an email.
  3. If the person wants to "chat" or "say hello," that's nice, but I do not respond.  
  4. If the person is writing in a foreign language, I do not respond.  I don't know why I get so many of these, but it looks like they sent them to a boatload of people and they're not really for me.
Does anyone want to spend less time on social media in 2021?  You might make your own strategy to burn through it faster.

Sunday, December 27, 2020

Inspiration from Eme

One of my knitting friends, Eme, sent me two photos of an absolutely beautiful baby blanket made using the Little Twist Cables technique.  I love the color!  Look how great her borders are, done in the ribbing!

Here's the video where I teach this easy cable:

Thursday, December 24, 2020

Wishing you a very merry Christmas!

We attend a wonderful church, and we have been able to attend lately (as they have social distancing, masks, etc.).  The services are also broadcast over the internet and available to view later.

This was my favorite sermon this Advent, a lesson tht gets to the heart of what God gave us for Christmas.

I hope you all have a beautiful, meaningful holiday!

Thursday, December 10, 2020

Choosing a Brother Knitting Machine

 I was asked a really terrific question recently.  If I were starting out, what standard gauge model Brother knitting machine would I choose?

I'm going to limit these comments to Brother machines.  Even limiting to the one brand, this is a very tough choice and a long essay.  

Do think about what you want to knit and what gives you joy.  

The Variety Knitter:  Speaking for myself, teaching and designing is the most fun, and that dictates that I teach and design on a the most popular models so you will get the most out of my books and videos.  But even if I weren't teaching, I would still design.  I always have a thing in my head I want to make.  I do knit other people's patterns, but I nearly always change at least a few things.  And, I constantly chase new ideas and different patterns.  

Are you like me?  If so, my workhorse standard gauge machine is the 965i.  Why?

  • The electronics give me lots of flexibility, which allows me to change things like the stitch design without punching a card.  I can make any design size I want, even if it's a multiple of 7 stitches or an isolated 92 stitches.  Electronics allows me to get the prep done quickly and start knitting.  Oh, by the way, I don't like punching cards, especially the noise my card punch makes.
  • The 965 has a big, big memory.  You could have a humongous picture that you put in its memory, but in my case, the big memory is handy for holding a lot small designs with individual pattern numbers.  
  • My "perfect" setup also includes a motor, Knit Leader, garter carriage, color changer, ribber and Design A Knit plus cables.  
  • Why not the 910, 930, 940, or 950?  No real reason, I like them all.  The 940 has the bigger memory.  The 965 is quite good with several patterns across something, so it's excellent for personalized items where you put in names.  Do you sell things or make gifts?  People love personalized items.  It's also great when you want borders.
I'm fortunate in that my husband (aka Mr. Fixit) deals with electronics quite cheerfully and effectively.  Sure, he's rather work on an antique motorcycle than fix a knitting machine, but he's fixed plenty of knitting machines for people.  John tells me to go ahead and have electronic machines, since I like them so much, and if they break, he'll try to fix them.  If he can't fix them, he'll help me find a replacement. Truthfully, I've had very, very few problems with my electronic machines.  I don't move them around a lot, I keep them inside and covered, nd I avoid shipping them.

Comments on the 970:  The 970 was the fanciest electronic machine Brother sold in the US, and they are indeed very feature-laden.  These are more expensive than the other models.  My biggest gripe is that they are harder to learn, and I keep meeting people who never learned the 970 and find themselves still knitting on a previous model.  

Charlene Shafer has good materials to help you learn the 970.  I also like the information on the Daisy Knits website.  

I do have one, and it's very nice to use.  However, the tiny display is hard on my eyes.  Also, these displays gradually dim and the luminescent panel will need replaced.  John puts a brighter light in them than the original, and other people do the job too.  I know Michael Becker does them.  

It is a great machine if you really love double jacquard in up to 6 colors, for instance, turning photographs into knitting.  

I've been told about the new console for the 970.  I haven't played with one, but I imagine I would really like it because I'd be using a big screen.  Hmm, I should look for one of those, although I really should only teach on the console most people have.

The Punch Card Lover:  Not everybody wants to fool with electronics.  Knitting machines can be quite frustrating, and if you don't love electronic gadgets, perhaps you'd rather not add learning to "program" patterns into the electronics.

Some knitters prefer punch card machines because they will never have to cope with broken electronics.  One of my friend's engineer husband told her to always buy punch card machines because he will always be able to fix them.  In her situation, I would definitely do that.

Some knitters have fantastic punch card collections and favorite patterns that use the punch cards.  I admit I haven't used extra wide patterns nearly as much as I thought I would when I went from punch card to electronic.  What I use is the flexibility and speed of putting in new patterns.

Are you an RV enthusiast?  Punch card machines don't need electricity.  

Punch card machines are less expensive and widely available.  The 24 stitch cards fit in multiple brands of machine.   

If you want a punch card machine, try to get one with pattern isolation.  Brother had little cam strips you put on the bed only where you wanted a pattern.  That was a very nice feature.  It's also really nice if you get one that works with a garter carriage - the older ones don't.  

The Prolific Knitter:  You might be doing some craft shows or knitting some volume for charity.  What machine you need will depend on what you make.  If you are running machines hard enough to wear them out, you would want to keep an eye out for a spare machine in great condition.  Most of all, I think you would want to use a machine you find easy to use.

I have never worn out a knitting machine.  I knit a lot, but not all day or every single day.  With a little care, these machines last a long time.  

The Beginner Knitter:  Many beginners make one of two humongous mistakes:

Beginner Big Mistake #1 is to purchase a cheap but awful machine to save money. Here's an example:  a knitter I knew purchased an old-time metal knitting machine from Germany with sinkers.  These were curved teeth that pulled down on the yarn as you went across with the carriage instead of using weights or a more sophisticated sinker plate.  I could not work that machine!  I really tried, but it constantly jammed.  

Now don't fuss at me in the comments that you loved that machine and you could have taught her.  At the time, I couldn't find a person who could teach her.  How could she, a beginner, manage that machine?  She tried incredibly hard over a period of time, but became discouraged and gave up the hobby entirely.  

I don't want to bad-mouth any particular machines here, but I urge you to avoid old, old machines, especially pre-punch card models.  Get a "modern" punch card or electronic machine.  I greatly dislike some of the new cheapie machines.  You want a machine that knits quickly and smoothly and has a proper upper tension unit.  If you want a plastic bed, get an LK150 or a Brother 350.  Are you a beginner considering some model or other?  Send me an email asking about the model you're considering, and I'll tell you what I know if I'm familiar with it.  I am NOT a dealer.  As we say in Texas, I don't have a dog in the fight.  I am focused on your knitting success.

Beginner Big Mistake #2 is to try to go it alone.  I prefer to learn things on my own, at my own speed and with nobody watching me fumble, but I didn't really master my machine until I found other knitters.  This isn't a good hobby to learn on your own.  There is just too much information that is not in the book.

Do yourself a huge favor and buy from someone who will will help you start or join a knitting club.  If you generally don't like to join groups, you might be quite surprised at how pleasant it is to be in a group of machine knitters.  Most groups are meeting virtually now, which means you can join a club thousands of miles away if you want.  I'm very happy with my remote membership in the San Francisco Bay Area Knitting Guild. I recently had an email from a knitting friend asking if there were a club near her.  It turns out she lives near one of the best clubs in the country! They will really help her out. 

You can learn from videos, too.  You can watch my instructional videos on YouTube at my channel, dianaknits.  I have hundreds of brief video classes, where I try to show and explain each step, and they're free!  I was one of the first people to do this, but LOTS of other knitters are doing it now, and they do good videos.

Finding a Machine:  I've written about this before, but a few fresh thoughts come to mind and a few things are well worth repeating.

Did you ever buy a lemon car?  Remember how expensive that was?  Well, on a knitting machine purchase, keep in mind that your biggest financial risk is buying a bad machine.  If you do find a deal at a yard sale or a thrift shop, don't spend more than you can afford to lose.  Some great machines have been found this way, and some had to be discarded because they were broken or the missing parts cost more than replacing the whole machine.  

Brother machines are getting quite old, and you don't know what they've been through with their prior owners. That's why I recommend buying from a dealer if you can.  Some of the dealers have amazing used Brother equipment for sale at very affordable prices.  A dealer who wants to stay in business cannot afford to sell you a bad machine.  That's why they go over used machines thoroughly, ensure that everything works and the parts are all included.

If you are hunting for a good machine, try searching for a local machine knitting club.  Most clubs have people who need to sell machines and some clubs have a person or two who loves to find homes for machines.  Here in Central Texas, we have no dealer, but if you contacted our knitting machine club, our members could help you find a good machine quickly.  

Monday, December 7, 2020

New Video - Bias Striped Gift Bag

 I have come to really appreciate holiday gift bags.  They're a time-saver, and reduce waste and mess since they can be reused.  

Here's one you can knit, and while you're at it, you'll practice working with bias knitting, making knitted cord, and sewing a grafted seam.  Have some fun with it - change the size, make it in striped cake yarn, or scrappy stripes, or run a fair isle down the bias - whatever you like to do with whatever you have on hand.

Do you like my videos?  When you watch this on YouTube, click on Subscribe and Notify.  I do at least one every month and really try to vary the topics.